Furnace Ignition control Fault code 9




S1-33102954000 2-STAGE PSC MOTOR BOARD



When replacing an older variable speed motor CFM programming board with the new  combination board (has both the ignition control and CFM programming board combined into one control) you will need to order a wiring harness  S1-02541103000

About yorkcentraltechtalk

I have been in the HVAC industry most of my life. I worked 25 years for contractors on anything from residential to large commercial boilers and power burners. For the past 23+ years I had been employed by York International UPG Division ( a division of Johnson Controls) as a Technical support/Service Manager but I am now retired. One of my goals has always been to "educate" dealers and contractors. The reason for starting this blog was to share some knowledge, thoughts, ideas, etc with anyone who takes the time to read it. The contents of this blog are my own opinions, thoughts, experiences and should not be construed as those of Johnson Controls York UPG in any way. I hope you find this a help. I always welcome comments and suggestions for postings and will do my best to address any thoughts, questions, or topics you may want to hear about. Thanks for taking the time to read my postings! Mike Bishop
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34 Responses to Furnace Ignition control Fault code 9

  1. Jesus Dobbyn says:

    Magnificent site. Lots of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends ans also sharing in delicious. And obviously, thanks for your effort!

  2. Mike says:

    I found this posting after replacing a York furnace control board and observing the same error code. I was very surprised, and delighted, to find the thorough description and solution to this problem. I did the same, and viola! Fixed! Thank you very much for putting this information out there.

    I would add that my old furnace control board had connections on it for an LED that ran up to the top of the little box the board is enclosed in. The new board had so such connection. However, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole through the outer cover and the control box cover, and sealed it with clear packing tape on inside and outside. This is enough to seal against air rushing in through the hole, and the flashing of the LED on the new board can now be easily seen by looking in the new “window” I made.

    Thanks again, and those reading this – go forth and fix it yourself! It works!

  3. james says:

    I love you man!..Seriously, I have been having issues with my furnace for 7 years. For the first few years it would be hit or miss if the the thing worked so I looked at it and decided I didn’t have a clue and called the repairman. Well wouldn’t you know it the thing worked fine when he was here, so that was $75 down the drain for nothing.

    When he left and it stopped working again I looked at it closer this time and found a loose solder connection on the board. So I took it out and resoldered it and put it back in, worked great for 2 whole years.

    Turned it on the other day to make sure it was working before the cold weather hit and of course it wasn’t. You have to understand me and this furnace is like the kids father in A Christmas Story and his, I was up there cussing up a storm. It was giving a fault code of pressure switch not opening, but I straight out figured it was the board again so ordered a new one. It got here today and I put it in, gave a bow of the head to the furnace gods and flipped the switch….error code 9….

    Needless to say I found your page, I wasn’t sure on the wires you were talking about (they are both grey in mine), but remembered enough electronics to know the secondary side of the transformer (DC, I think, lol) swapped them and hit the swith. Works like new, for a little while at least 😉

    Thanks again, I was about to give up and get hit with a large bill, you saved me a lot of money!

  4. john dragh says:

    I think that I need help from an expert in York Heaters
    This is the story…
    The power line went down due to a severe ice storm and I had to go and buy an generator.i connected the heater to the generatorwith an power outlet and a power plug,and it worked for about 6-10 hours ,when the main power came back . I plugged back the heater to the power line and it started to work only like a fan without the heat, the burner doesn,t start working and an error code 9 is blinking continous
    What can I do?

  5. jose says:

    I have the same problem I already change the polarity black line and white neutral but, nothing happened ..or is those two 24 volt wirie blue and brown ..specify please.

  6. Ray says:

    We were working on an incorrectly wired humidifier issue and while troubleshooting that issue, removed the 24v secondary connections and apparently reversed them. Since it is AC never gave it any real thought but when we normalled everything else back up, system would not start! Looking at the fault code then discovered that the original installers didn’t securely attach the main ground. Connected it back up and still same fault. It is now 7 PM on Sunday night and we’re 30 miles out in the country. The original install was kludged badly and had been rigged to bypass the control board sending 110V AC directly to the motor via a relay they had installed! So the only thing I could figure was they had damaged the board when new and simply bypassed it so we temporarily connected it back up in order to get the heat back on. Found this post and your post [“it’s not usually the control board”] after I got back home and figured the wires were probably reversed. Had my son reverse them the next morning and it came right up. Whew! Now we can wire the motor like it should have been and get the humidifier working. Just a question for you, do you know the technical reason why the control board won’t work with the wires reversed? Is the transformer some special design?

    • most transformers have a GROUNDED COMMON side to the transformer. When you read voltage fro “R” to ground you read 24 volts. When you read “C” to ground you read ZERO. If the ground is lost you would read 12- 15 volts on R and 11-12 on C. So, if you reverse R & C, you have reversed the low voltsage polarity.

      • jose munoz says:

        Thanks you.I did and the unit start working fine.thank you so much.

      • Jose Munoz says:

        Thankks so much. On Dec 8, 2015 10:59 AM, “York Central Tech Talk” wrote: > > yorkcentraltechtalk commented: “most transformers have a GROUNDED COMMON side to the transformer. When you read voltage fro “R” to ground you read 24 volts. When you read “C” to ground you read ZERO. If the ground is lost you would read 12- 15 volts on R and 11-12 on C. So, if you” >

  7. Mike says:

    I have the York 1162-201 control board and when I apply 24V to the board the blower fan turns on immediately and i get the red 9 flash code. I reversed the 24V secondary wires and checked for ground all the way back to the breaker panel. Chassis of furnace is grounded. I replaced board and same 9 flash code..Arrrrg!

    • That part number is obsolete. The correct replacement board should be S1-33103010000. You should check with your distributor for what the flash code correction is for the control you have. Besides polarity problems, try disconnecting the flame sensor from the board. Recycle the power and see if the flash 9 goes away.

      • Mike says:

        Hi Mike
        Thanks for your expert advise and info! I actually have 3 control boards now.
        The original board # 1162-201
        Replacement (1) # ICM2808
        Replacement (2) # ICM2808
        I forgot to include information in my original post.
        Replacement board # (2) will flash slow green LED on power up and wait for call for heat or cool.
        When heat is called the unit will fire up and work properly. Then when I set the Tstat to off position
        a little while later the furnace blower motor will turn on for around 1.5 minutes shut off for 3 minutes and repeat randomly. During this blower on/off cycling the LED is giving a red 9 flash code.I have disconnected the flame sensor and cycled power. The LED is flashing green waiting for a call for heat/cool. What are your thoughts? Could a flame sensor rod cause this issue?
        Thanks in advance!

      • Have you recently installed a “smart thermostat”? If so, see my post on SMART Thermostats. If there is not a common wire run to the stat, it will have problems.

  8. Mike says:

    I do have a WIFI tstat but it has a common wire from furnace board.
    I have this issue with the tstat disconnected.

    • Yes, it could be a shorted flame sensor. Check from R to ground and from C to ground. R to ground should
      D be 24 VAC, C to ground should read 0 VAC. Do this at both the board and the thermostat.
      If problem persists, I suggest calling your heating contractor.

  9. Mike says:

    Hi Mike
    All the voltage readings are correct. Could it be the ICM 2808 replacement board I put in?
    Is this the correct replacement for the original 1162- 201 board?
    thanks for all you time on this.

    • I do not show the ICM 2808 as an OEM replacement for the 1162-201 board. As I said in my first response, “The correct replacement board should be S1-33103010000.” The ICM may work but I do not have specs on it.

  10. Ray FINNILA says:

    I have a Luxaire PCUHCLD20N115 furnace. Last summer we replaced the control module with an ICM 2808, and it worked fine on air condition. However, when we tried to switch the heat on, the module shows a green light, followed by slow amber, apparently normal. This is as the thermostat calls for heat, the induced draft motor starts, then the hot surface igniter begins to glow. Then, as the blower motor starts, the hot surface igniter goes out. I checked the resistance on the igniter and it was 90 ohms and no cracks, and I hot-wired it to 115 volts it glowed fine. I get the nine red flashes and no flame and apparently no gas. I am getting 25 volts at the transformer at the R terminal and 0 volts at the C when checked to the chassis and I did not have continuity from any of the terminals to the transformer mount. I tried switching the transformer wires on the secondary side and I would immediately get 9 red flashes. Cleaned the ground to the board attached to the transformer screw. The thermostat has been in use for over 10 years and has no C terminal, and it worked fine. I checked the flame sensor and did not get continuity between the terminal and bracket, and I cleaned it with a Scotchbrite pad. I did see that there appears to be one circuit that powers the furnace and another that powers the humidifier and go into the same box attached to the furnace and use common neutrals and grounds. The hot wire shows 115 volts to ground and to the neutrals, with no voltage when the neutrals are tested to ground. The blower motor is grounded. I am at a loss. Perhaps there is something going on with the blower motor because the fault appears when it starts and shuts down the igniter. Any ideas would be appreciated.

  11. Ray FINNILA says:

    I appreciate your prompt response. Since I did not have a manometer, I called my son who ironically is an HVAC Tech (mostly commercial and industrial) with one, who unfortunately for me could not come over since he had been working every day for a week and a half. He suggested that I could turn off the gas to the furnace and cycle it a few times, which should reduce and excessive pressures and I should be able to see it flare if the gas pressure was excessive, with no result. He could not come over until this evening. Meanwhile, I continued to look for ground and polarity problems, tracing back the wiring to the panel to ensure that there were no wiring issues that were evident, and research the documentation left when the furnace was installed.

    After he came over and we compared notes, he pointed out that the circulating blower started up at around 20 seconds into the call for heat, and the Furnace Event Control Schedule indicates that it should start at about 52 seconds into the sequence, so what could be the cause? After much checking and cleaning and following wires, we disconnected the thermostat to rule it out as the cause, and jumped the R and W terminals on the control board with no change. He disconnected the control board terminal connections for the blower on heat and it still ran. Then he disconnected both the cool and heat terminal connections and the relay(s) on the board relays would still click. So we concluded that there was a fault in the board that would trigger the relay for the blower in the heat cycle at about the same time as it would in the cool cycle, and that is why this new board worked in cool for the last two months and not now in heat. The fault codes were not consistent as to slow amber, and four amber flashes, but would end in 9 red. Ultimately it went to steady red – control board failure. So it appears that the fault was in the board, and it is time for a new one.

    I well update when I get a new control board, and a spare flame sensor. As it turned out, I had a new hot surface igniter that I bought when I changed the previous flame sensor.

    Thanks for the help. I wanted to provide my experience in diagnosing this problem, to help pass on the learning.

  12. Ray FINNILA says:

    My son spoke to York and other techs he works with, and they agree that it must be the ICM 2808 replacement board. So he went to the supply house and got a #33103010000 board by LUXPTS, and a spare flame rod, as a spare or just in case (had a spare igniter that I bought when the previous on failed).

    The supply house was not favorably impressed when my son told them that I had gotten an ICM replacement board. I do not know if it was because of their reputation or they did not get the business.

    There was one issue with the ICM board in A/C, the blower would go on at times without the call for A/C, which was probably a clue that I dismissed. I figured that this may be an upgrade to balance temperatures in the house. I guess I was wrong.

    He came over this morning, he plugged the new board in and the furnace ran fine, as did the A/C.

    I was very disappointed in the ICM 2808 because it worked fine on A/C, but not on heat. It caused me to go down a bunch of blind paths, and spent a lot of time looking for problems in my system that apparently did not exist. Fortunately, I was not paying someone by the hour to diagnose it.

    I appreciate the help, you are performing a great service to people that have HVAC issues. You may not have diagnosed my exact problem but redirected me from wasting my time pursuing the “red herring” of the grounding or polarity problems suggested by the 9 flashing red lights.

    Thanks, Ray

    • Sorry I could not pin point your exact problem but glad that you got it solved.

      • Mike says:

        Hey Ray,
        I bought two ICM 2808 boards chasing the infamous 9 Red code. They both would turn the blower on with no call for heat or cool and the tstat in the off position. Then they would run through a heat cycle and when call for heat was removed the 9 Red flash would start. Only a power cycle to the board would reset the board. I built a simulation test fixture and both boards would run normally so I was stumped, thinking I could not possibly have two new bad boards.The current board all of a sudden just started working in heat mode and has worked for a week now. I better get a #33103010000 board for backup.

      • Thanks for your comment. Sometimes”universal replacements” aren’t. I always believed in using OEM parts.

  13. Jason Parsons says:

    I have been having an issue and thought for sure it was my board. I replaced it with an ICM and now I am getting this error code. My unit was installed in 92-93. after the call for heat ended, I am getting the error code. Should I try to reverse polarity anyway?


  14. Mike says:

    Hi Jason
    Return the ICM board and buy the original equipment board.
    I am an EE and waisted many hours chasing ghosts caused by two of these ICM boards.
    Not 1 but 2 new ICM boards. Bought the OEM board and it has worked flawless for months now.


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