Furnace Ignition control Fault code 9




S1-33102954000 2-STAGE PSC MOTOR BOARD



When replacing an older variable speed motor CFM programming board with the new  combination board (has both the ignition control and CFM programming board combined into one control) you will need to order a wiring harness  S1-02541103000

About yorkcentraltechtalk

I have been in the HVAC industry most of my life. I worked 25 years for contractors on anything from residential to large commercial boilers and power burners. For the past 23+ years I had been employed by York International UPG Division ( a division of Johnson Controls) as a Technical support/Service Manager but I am now retired. One of my goals has always been to "educate" dealers and contractors. The reason for starting this blog was to share some knowledge, thoughts, ideas, etc with anyone who takes the time to read it. The contents of this blog are my own opinions, thoughts, experiences and should not be construed as those of Johnson Controls York UPG in any way. I hope you find this a help. I always welcome comments and suggestions for postings and will do my best to address any thoughts, questions, or topics you may want to hear about. Thanks for taking the time to read my postings! Mike Bishop
This entry was posted in HVAC Tech Support. Bookmark the permalink.

19 Responses to Furnace Ignition control Fault code 9

  1. Jesus Dobbyn says:

    Magnificent site. Lots of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends ans also sharing in delicious. And obviously, thanks for your effort!

  2. Mike says:

    I found this posting after replacing a York furnace control board and observing the same error code. I was very surprised, and delighted, to find the thorough description and solution to this problem. I did the same, and viola! Fixed! Thank you very much for putting this information out there.

    I would add that my old furnace control board had connections on it for an LED that ran up to the top of the little box the board is enclosed in. The new board had so such connection. However, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole through the outer cover and the control box cover, and sealed it with clear packing tape on inside and outside. This is enough to seal against air rushing in through the hole, and the flashing of the LED on the new board can now be easily seen by looking in the new “window” I made.

    Thanks again, and those reading this – go forth and fix it yourself! It works!

  3. james says:

    I love you man!..Seriously, I have been having issues with my furnace for 7 years. For the first few years it would be hit or miss if the the thing worked so I looked at it and decided I didn’t have a clue and called the repairman. Well wouldn’t you know it the thing worked fine when he was here, so that was $75 down the drain for nothing.

    When he left and it stopped working again I looked at it closer this time and found a loose solder connection on the board. So I took it out and resoldered it and put it back in, worked great for 2 whole years.

    Turned it on the other day to make sure it was working before the cold weather hit and of course it wasn’t. You have to understand me and this furnace is like the kids father in A Christmas Story and his, I was up there cussing up a storm. It was giving a fault code of pressure switch not opening, but I straight out figured it was the board again so ordered a new one. It got here today and I put it in, gave a bow of the head to the furnace gods and flipped the switch….error code 9….

    Needless to say I found your page, I wasn’t sure on the wires you were talking about (they are both grey in mine), but remembered enough electronics to know the secondary side of the transformer (DC, I think, lol) swapped them and hit the swith. Works like new, for a little while at least😉

    Thanks again, I was about to give up and get hit with a large bill, you saved me a lot of money!

  4. john dragh says:

    I think that I need help from an expert in York Heaters
    This is the story…
    The power line went down due to a severe ice storm and I had to go and buy an generator.i connected the heater to the generatorwith an power outlet and a power plug,and it worked for about 6-10 hours ,when the main power came back . I plugged back the heater to the power line and it started to work only like a fan without the heat, the burner doesn,t start working and an error code 9 is blinking continous
    What can I do?

  5. jose says:

    I have the same problem I already change the polarity black line and white neutral but, nothing happened ..or is those two 24 volt wirie blue and brown ..specify please.

  6. Ray says:

    We were working on an incorrectly wired humidifier issue and while troubleshooting that issue, removed the 24v secondary connections and apparently reversed them. Since it is AC never gave it any real thought but when we normalled everything else back up, system would not start! Looking at the fault code then discovered that the original installers didn’t securely attach the main ground. Connected it back up and still same fault. It is now 7 PM on Sunday night and we’re 30 miles out in the country. The original install was kludged badly and had been rigged to bypass the control board sending 110V AC directly to the motor via a relay they had installed! So the only thing I could figure was they had damaged the board when new and simply bypassed it so we temporarily connected it back up in order to get the heat back on. Found this post and your post [“it’s not usually the control board”] after I got back home and figured the wires were probably reversed. Had my son reverse them the next morning and it came right up. Whew! Now we can wire the motor like it should have been and get the humidifier working. Just a question for you, do you know the technical reason why the control board won’t work with the wires reversed? Is the transformer some special design?

    • most transformers have a GROUNDED COMMON side to the transformer. When you read voltage fro “R” to ground you read 24 volts. When you read “C” to ground you read ZERO. If the ground is lost you would read 12- 15 volts on R and 11-12 on C. So, if you reverse R & C, you have reversed the low voltsage polarity.

      • jose munoz says:

        Thanks you.I did and the unit start working fine.thank you so much.

      • Jose Munoz says:

        Thankks so much. On Dec 8, 2015 10:59 AM, “York Central Tech Talk” wrote: > > yorkcentraltechtalk commented: “most transformers have a GROUNDED COMMON side to the transformer. When you read voltage fro “R” to ground you read 24 volts. When you read “C” to ground you read ZERO. If the ground is lost you would read 12- 15 volts on R and 11-12 on C. So, if you” >

  7. Mike says:

    I have the York 1162-201 control board and when I apply 24V to the board the blower fan turns on immediately and i get the red 9 flash code. I reversed the 24V secondary wires and checked for ground all the way back to the breaker panel. Chassis of furnace is grounded. I replaced board and same 9 flash code..Arrrrg!

    • That part number is obsolete. The correct replacement board should be S1-33103010000. You should check with your distributor for what the flash code correction is for the control you have. Besides polarity problems, try disconnecting the flame sensor from the board. Recycle the power and see if the flash 9 goes away.

      • Mike says:

        Hi Mike
        Thanks for your expert advise and info! I actually have 3 control boards now.
        The original board # 1162-201
        Replacement (1) # ICM2808
        Replacement (2) # ICM2808
        I forgot to include information in my original post.
        Replacement board # (2) will flash slow green LED on power up and wait for call for heat or cool.
        When heat is called the unit will fire up and work properly. Then when I set the Tstat to off position
        a little while later the furnace blower motor will turn on for around 1.5 minutes shut off for 3 minutes and repeat randomly. During this blower on/off cycling the LED is giving a red 9 flash code.I have disconnected the flame sensor and cycled power. The LED is flashing green waiting for a call for heat/cool. What are your thoughts? Could a flame sensor rod cause this issue?
        Thanks in advance!

      • Have you recently installed a “smart thermostat”? If so, see my post on SMART Thermostats. If there is not a common wire run to the stat, it will have problems.

  8. Mike says:

    I do have a WIFI tstat but it has a common wire from furnace board.
    I have this issue with the tstat disconnected.

    • Yes, it could be a shorted flame sensor. Check from R to ground and from C to ground. R to ground should
      D be 24 VAC, C to ground should read 0 VAC. Do this at both the board and the thermostat.
      If problem persists, I suggest calling your heating contractor.

  9. Mike says:

    Hi Mike
    All the voltage readings are correct. Could it be the ICM 2808 replacement board I put in?
    Is this the correct replacement for the original 1162- 201 board?
    thanks for all you time on this.

    • I do not show the ICM 2808 as an OEM replacement for the 1162-201 board. As I said in my first response, “The correct replacement board should be S1-33103010000.” The ICM may work but I do not have specs on it.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s